Terrain: Gun Emplacement

Enjoying my time off over the Christmas break I've had some free hobby time and so decided to make some terrain from scratch. In the end I landed on a small gun emplacement.

To start I cut some plasticard in an irregular shape to serve as the base (yellow). I then added some small mounds of milliput to simulate the uneven dirt surface of the emplacement. Next, I added some foam core card rectangles to serve as the 'wood wall' of the emplacement. Finally I built up the 'dirt' mound with PVA soaked tissues and left everything to dry.

 

Once everything was dried I coated everything in PVA glue and covered in sand to add texture. I also added some cut up sprue bits as vertical reinforcements for the 'wood wall'. Then everything was spray painted with a grey undercoat.

                              

Finally, I dry brushed everything with brown paint, painted the wooden wall and dry brushed the rocks making sure to leave some of the grey visible to represent rocks beneath the dirt mounds. As a final touch I added some flock to the earthen areas and some extra large grit sand to the soil within the gun emplacement. 

  

It's a quick and drity job but plays the part and was dirt cheap to make with only a few left over things and hobby materials I already had from basing. I think once out there on the table it will look great.

A nice way to start the New Year for 2026. I'm looking forward to many more hobby experiences over the year. In particular, playing some more games of 3rd edition bolt action as well as starting a Stargrave Campaign (I might need to start posting about that - though I know this is a bolt action blog!).

Signing off,

Chewie 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Review: RKX Miniatures 3D printed by OzWargaming

I wanted to share my thoughts on something new I recently tried for my Bolt Action armies: 3D printed models. I’ve been hearing a lot about how 3D printing is taking the wargaming community by storm, so I decided to dive in and see what all the fuss was about. For this experiment, I purchased a mix of British and German models from OzWargaming, featuring sculpts from RKX Miniatures’ 28mm WWII range. Here’s my review and honest thoughts on this experiences 

This was my first time working with 3D printed miniatures. As someone who’s used to the crisp sculpts of Warlord Games and Rubicon’s plastic kits, I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. The models I received were nicely detailed and mostly to scale with Bolt Action miniatures, which was a pleasant surprise. For example, I tried mixing a 3D printed gunner and machine gun with loaders from Warlord Games’ British/Canadian Infantry Plastics, and the result was surprisingly seamless—the figures blended together nicely.

However, the 3D prints weren’t without issues, so let’s break things down.

• Scale Compatibility: For the most part, the scale of the 3D printed figures works well alongside Bolt Action minis. This was particularly noticeable with infantry pieces, where I could mix and match components with no glaring size discrepancies.

 

The middle model is a 3D print from RKX minis and the other 2 are Warlord plastics

 

• Detail: The sculpts themselves are decent, with a good level of detail on weapons, uniforms, and equipment. The models capture the essentials of WWII-era soldiers nicely.

Unfortunately, the 3D printed models fell a little short when compared to traditional plastic kits. Here are the main issues I ran into:

1. Textured Finish: One drawback for me was the slightly textured surface of the models. While this texture largely disappears after priming and painting, it’s not as smooth as Warlord or Rubicon plastics, and that initial difference was noticeable.

2. Brittle Material: The resin/plastic material used in the 3D prints felt brittle compared to traditional plastic kits. This is a major concern for wargaming miniatures, as they’re handled frequently during games. I worry about long-term durability, especially when it comes to thinner parts like gun barrels. E.g. the Bren Carrier was shipped to me with damaged tracks and it's not easy to fix.
   

3. Print Quality Issues: While the detail on most models was solid, there were a few noticeable flaws. For instance, the Flak 30 model I received had a wonky wheel that I couldn’t ignore. These imperfections can be frustrating, especially for those of us who love precision in our armies.

    

   

   Left: Wonky wheel, Right: Good wheel.
   

    

4. Scaling Problems: One particular issue I noticed was with the crew for the Universal Carrier. The crew models were noticeably smaller in scale compared to the infantry figures. While this isn’t unique to 3D prints (Rubicon and Warlord tank crews also suffer from this problem), it’s still worth mentioning.

   

   Notice how much bigger the warlord model is compared to the crew
   

   
   

    

Overall, my first experience with 3D printed miniatures has been... fine. They’re OK, but they didn’t blow me away. For someone with their own 3D printer setup, this would be a fantastic and affordable way to bulk out armies or create rare units that aren’t readily available from traditional manufacturers. However, as a one-off purchase, I personally prefer the quality and reliability of Warlord Games, Rubicon, or Tamiya models over 3D printed minis.

That being said, if you’re on a budget or looking for something specific that isn’t sold elsewhere, 3D printing could be a great option. For me, though, I’ll be sticking to the tried-and-true plastic kits for now.

Signing off,

Chewie

Kit Bash: British Infantry Artillery Forward Observer (Scale Histroy SLC Competition)

As part of the 'Captain Kitbash 2024 Contest' run by the youtube channel Scale History SLC (Channel here). The competition is a fun little one designed to encourage the creative use of kit bashing to make unique models. The ground rules are as follows:

1) Entries must be 1-3 28mm models from WW2/Korean war.

2) The conversion must be created after the announcement of the competition.

3) Entries must be painted (to at least 3 colours).

4) One entry per contestant.  

5) You must subscribe/follow ScaleHistroySLC on Youtube and Instagram.

I have decided to make a British Infantry Artillery observer as my entry into the comp. The model is meant to represent a late war (Maybe Operation Market Garden haha!) British Artillery Forward Observer. I wanted the conversion to be quite subtle and look like a model that could realistically exist in the Bolt Action range while still capturing the character of the unit it represents. I did an identical pose to my US army forward observer as I really liked how that model came out. In the spirit of the competition I also used a number of plastic kits to make this and put together the build below:

All the pieces I used to make the model.

I decided with the mustached head from the French Resistance kit from Wargames atlantic as it felt quite 'British' to me. The arms are mix of British Infantry and US Airborne and the radio hand piece is a German stick grenade with the head cut and re-positioned. The helmet comes from the British & Canadian infantry kit and the radio was made from a cut up US Airborne ammo box with some gun straps on the side. The antenna and radio wires are broom bristle brushes clipped and bent into position. Once happy with that I set to painting it using a simple Vallejo English Uniform for the uniform and Vallejo Green Gray for the webbing. The painted model is below:

Overall I'm very happy with how it's come together and this was my first time painting British Infantry uniform so I'm glad that I have a good recipe now to do the rest of my XXX corps army. The entries in last years competition were extremely good with many people sculpting their own pieces and uniforms and i'm not at that skill level (yet!) - but it was a fun exercise planning, making and painting the piece. Entries are due April 1st 2024 so I will keep you all posted on how I go.

Signing off,

Chewie.

Kit Bash: Subtle Conversions for late war SS

Lately I've really enjoying bringing a touch of individuality to my models through subtle conversions. With a Market Garden Campaign on the horizon for next year, I felt inspired to add a personal touch to my SS troops who will play the part of the many kampfgruppen which were formed in response the allied landings.

These examples below are simple arm swaps with bits from the British Airborne plastic kit and the German Grenadiers plastic kit - both from warlord. 

This SS soldier with panzerfaust has his Kar98 slung over his shoulder. The arm and sling are from the British Airborne box with the Lee Enfield snipped off and replaced with a spare Kar98 from the German Grenadiers box. I think it really captures the feel of an exhausted soldier who's been marching for hours.

Likewise, this soldier running and swapping out his Stg44 magazine was a simple conversion made using a spare Stg44 from the SS kit and an empty arm from the British Airborne kit. I imagine him advancing under heavy fire while taking a fresh magazine from his bandolier. 

When placed together the figures look the part and capture the feeling of a small Kampfgruppen ready to push the Brits out of Arnhem!

As I continue to add to my 6th Airborne and SS armies I'm sure I will make many other conversions inspired by photos, other wargamers models and anything else I see. When complete I will be sure do post an army showcase for each army!

Signing off,

Chewie.

Painting: SS Autumn Oak Leaf Camo

As an opposing side to my British Airborne I am making an SS force based around late 1944 Market Garden(ish) period. So far it has been fun doing the research and putting together the units and one thing that struck me was the interesting camouflage schemes used by the SS in the late war to blend into their surroundings. One of the most distinctive and iconic designs was the German Oakleaf Autumn Camouflage, characterised by its unique combination of dark brown and orange. This is a painting guide for my take on the iconic look.

Two German soldiers wear Autumn Leaf Camouflage smocks

Step 1: Applying the Base Coat. Start by applying a base coat to your miniature using a light, earthy tone, such as a mix of brown and green. I used Vallejo Beige Brown. This will serve as the foundation for your camouflage pattern. 

 

Step 2: Creating Dark Splotches. Using a small, fine-tipped brush and a darker shade of brown or green, apply irregularly shaped splotches onto the base coat. I used a 1:1 mix of Vallejo Flat Brown and Negro Black. These splotches should be random in size and placement, mimicking the patterns found in natural foliage. . Remember to keep the splotches relatively small and well-distributed to achieve a balanced and realistic effect. 

Step 3: Adding Orange Dots. To mimic the fallen autumn leaves, take an orange paint and create tiny dots on top of the dark splotches. These dots should be sporadic and irregular in shape and size. Use a small brush or even the tip of a toothpick to achieve precise and delicate dots. The orange color will provide a striking contrast against the darker background, capturing the essence of the autumn foliage. For this step I used Citadel Squig Orange.

 

Step 4: Applying Final Dark Splotches Now, return to the dark brown or green paint and carefully apply additional splotches over the orange dots and surrounding areas. This step helps to further blend and integrate the orange dots into the camouflage pattern, giving it a cohesive and realistic appearance. The final dark splotches should overlap slightly with the existing ones, creating a sense of depth and complexity.I then washed the model with Citadel Agrax Earthshade and filled in the other details.

I am by no means a great painter but I think it looks the part especially when the models will be viewed from arms length away on a gaming table! The process is rather time consuming and it is taking me some time to get through all the miniatures but when they are together in a squad they look quite striking (in my opinion!). Of course there were many different camouflage schemes during the war and this is serves as a guide of how I am doing mine. I will no doubt experiment with the look as this project goes on!

I hope other people find this guide helpful and use it as inspiration for their own hobby!

Signing out,

Chewie

Kit Bash: British Airborne 6pdr Gun

Over the Xmas break I've been busy with my British airborne project and have continued on my quest to replace all metal models with plastic conversions. Next up on my list was a 6pdr gun with the aim of both converting the crew and making a scenic base for the gun. 

British airborne troops with a 6-pdr anti-tank gun in Hamminkeln, Germany 1945

I was inspired by the many 'diorama' bases I've seen online that people make for their artillery pieces and wanted to try my hand at something similar. I started with a 9.5cm X 8.0cm piece of plastic card as the foundation and positioned where I wanted the gun and crew to be on the base. I then built up some ground and dirt using milliput. I also left some spaces for bases of the crew so they can be removed as casualties easily while playing. 

WIP of the gun and base. This is my second time making a metal 6pdr and it was still an absolute dog of a model to put together.

Everything was then covered in PVA and sand and then spray painted and painted up just like the bases on my usual British airborne infantry. I was aiming for a look that was on the edge of a city. Maybe on the outskirts of Arnhem firing into the German counter attack? I made the shrubs from tissue paper soaked in PVA and water then covered them in flock.The ammo boxes and shells all came with the gun. 

The finished diorama base.

Next up was the crew. In bolt action 6pdr guns have a crew of three but nearly every photo I've seen on them has at least 4 people working around the gun so not sure what is correct. The conversions were extremely simple and I think they have effectively represent a gun crew.

The gunner

First up was the gunner. This was a simple conversion that only used British airborne parts. The right arm is the arm holding the Sten gun with the gun clipped off and the left arm is direct from the airborne sprue. I imagine he is looking down the sight and ready to fire.

 

The loader

The loader was another simple conversion. All British airborne parts with the shell taken from the Rubicon Pak40 plastic kit (a dreamy kit compared to the metal warlord one!). The right hand is actually a left hand but you can't really tell when its all on the table haha!

The spotter

Finally is the spotter. This model was made from British airborne parts and Waffen SS bits. The left arm is from the SS sprue and the right hand holding binoculars is from the German Grenadier sprue. I imagine he is about to bring down his arm and yell "FIRE!".

Here is the final product all together:

Overall I'm very happy with how it all turned out. I think I've captured a dynamic scene of the crew frantically loading the gun while under attack. I was a little dubious about the diorama bases as while they look great, they aren't the best for gameplay and moving pieces around terrain. I decided with it anyway as models are on the display case 99% of the time and the gaming table 1% so net worth it in the end.

Looking forward to another year of Bolt Action and hobby fun!

Singing off,

Chewie